Winter Warmers
Penny Woodward shares some of her favourite herbs to sow now so they’re ready to add to your warming winter dishes.
Looking for some interesting flavours to add to your warming winter soups and stews? Autumn is the
perfect time to get these herbs into the ground so that you can pick to your heart’s content when winter cold sets in. Most are traditional northern European herbs, so they cope well with cold weather and frosts. While some are tall, adding structure and drama to the garden, others are more diminutive and can be tucked into odd corners or pots for ease of harvest. Between them they have a delightful range of flavours and uses, adding interest to your garden and new variety to winter fare.
Alexanders (Smyrnium olusatrum)
Alexanders, possibly named after Alexander the Great, is an old-fashioned pot herb, which simply means it was used to add greenery as well as flavour to the cooking pot. Originally from the Mediterranean region and spread by Roman warriors to various parts of the world, Alexanders is a relatively common sight growing wild in the ruins of medieval monasteries in England and Europe. This biennial herb grows up to 1.5m tall and has large leaves, and in the second year bulbous yellow-green umbrella-shaped flower heads grow, and are followed by aromatic black seed. Grow from seed sown in autumn, or plant seedlings also in autumn into well-drained, composty, sandy-loam soil in a sunny or semi-shaded position. Plants die back in the first summer and reshoot again in autumn; being biennial they will usually die after flowering in the second year, but self-sow readily. Blanched leaves, stems and shoots have a flavour similar to celery and parsley combined. Boil stems as a vegetable, or chop and add leaves and young shoots to soups and stews. Leaves are also delicious raw in winter salads. Pour boiling water over chopped leaves and stems and drink as a tea, to relieve flatulence and colic.
Caraway (Carum carvi)
Caraway has been an important spice in Arab cultures for centuries, and made its way to Europe in the 13th century. It was one of the seeds used to make ‘comfits’, edible balls of sugared seeds eaten in Medieval England. It’s a biennial with carrot-like foliage growing to 60cm. If seeds are planted in autumn, the small white flowers will appear the following summer. Flowers are followed by fruit (seed), which is crescent-shaped, brown and ridged. If seed are planted in spring then the flowers and seed will not appear until the second summer.
Seedlings hate being transplanted, so plant seed where they are to grow. Caraway thrives in most soils and does well in sun or semi-shade, but dislikes being too wet in winter so make sure drainage is good. Plants usually die after they have flowered and set seed, so if you want regular supplies of leaves, then plant some in autumn, and more in spring. The thick tapering roots make an unusual but delicious vegetable; leaves are picked for their distinct flavour and added to soups and salads. While seeds are traditionally sprinkled over steamed vegetables, they can also be stirred into cheeses, breads, biscuits, cakes and some stewed fruits. To harvest seeds, cut seed heads with stems attached before they are fully ripe and dry upside down in paper bags.
Dill (Anethum graveolens)
This tall annual herb was beloved by early Egyptians, Copts, Romans and people of the Indian continent. It has feathery blue-green leaves and is topped by a cluster of umbrellashaped flower heads with small yellow flowers. These are followed by oval-brown seeds that self-sow readily if left on the plant. Sow dill seed where it is to grow, in autumn or spring. In cooler weather, plants grow more slowly so successive plantings may not be needed to maintain a supply of fresh leaves. Dill does best in a sunny, open position with welldrained but compost-rich soil. Although if planting in spring, look for a position with afternoon shade. Flowers attract bees and other beneficial insects.
Both leaves and seed are widely used in cooking. Seeds aid digestion by easing stomach aches that are caused by wind, and dill water is often given to children to relieve colic. Use fresh leaves for their distinct, pleasant flavour in salads, especially potato salad, and sprinkle over any dish that contains lamb. The flavour of seeds and leaves also combine well with stronger-flavoured fish. Immature flowerheads are essential to dill pickles and vinegar mixes. Dill flowers and pollen are also sought-after ingredients in a diverse range of dishes.
Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana)
This perennial, originally growing wild in Russia and Finland, has large wavy green leaves and a spreading, clumping tuberous rootstock. A nice cultivar ‘Variegata’ has leaves splashed with creamy yellow. Grow new plants by dividing roots and replanting into any reasonable soil that has been enriched with compost and manure. Protect from snails and slugs when young. Dig and replant healthy roots in autumn, every year or two Add finely chopped young leaves to salads, and sprinkle over soups just before serving, but don’t take too many or you’ll reduce the size of roots for harvesting. Horseradish is mainly grown for its pungent roots, which are grated and made into horseradish sauce, served with fish and meat. If you plant horseradish this autumn, you’ll be able to harvest your first roots 12 months later to make and eat horseradish sauce through the winter.
Landcress (Barbarea vulgaris)
This tasty herb is also called winter cress and is one of my favourite edible herbs. A hardy biennial that grows as a rosette of dark green leaves with stalks topped by a profusion of yellow flowers, it can be grown from seed sown in autumn or spring. Landcress does best in humus-rich soils in a semi-shaded position and it will go to seed if allowed to dry out. Fortunately it self-sows everywhere. Leaves are deliciously hot and spicy, and can become bitter, but still delicious, once the plant flowers. Leaves are rich in minerals and vitamins, especially vitamin C, and this is a very useful salad plant, as well as being good for sprinkling over soups or stews before serving, and adding to sandwiches. Flowers are also edible, just use them in the same way as the leaves.
Lovage (Levisticum officinale)
Lovage is a tall herbaceous perennial with round hollow stalks and yellow-green winged leaves. The whole plant looks a bit like giant celery. Greenish-yellow flowers are followed by brown oblong fruit (seeds) in late summer or autumn. Sow seed or divide roots in autumn or spring. Lovage likes a humus-rich, sandy-loam soil that retains some moisture. It does best in a semi-shaded position and in very cold regions it may disappear for a while in winter. But I find this doesn’t happen in my mild temperate garden and plants grow into a large clump.
Lovage has a long history of medicinal and culinary use, originating in Italy and surrounding countries where it was used in love potions. All parts of the plant are eaten although it is not as commonly used today. Lovage’s unique flavour (it has been suggested it’s a cross between celery and yeast extract) enhances many dishes, particularly casseroles, soups and sauces. Grate the roots into salads, and add seeds to breads, soft cheeses and rice.
Winter savory (Satureja montana)
Winter savory grows as a small woody shrub with tiny dark green leaves and white or pink flowers. There is also a prostrate variety that has coarser leaves, larger white flowers and is much lower growing. Grow new plants from seed or cuttings in autumn or spring, or detach a rooted piece and replant. Trim back after flowering. This heat-loving plant is related to thyme and rosemary, and likes a well-drained sandy loam soil and an open, sunny position. It makes a great low border or hedge plant and is a beneficial bug magnet when in flower. Leaves have a spicy flavour that pairs beautifully with beans, peas and other vegetables, and also adds flavour to salads, soups and stews. Medicinally, it’s warming and soothing.
